Tips to Buy a New Heating and Cooling System

When you purchasing a heating and cooling system, it’s important to buy the most energy efficient system.  Purchasing a heating and cooling system will be an expensive purchase initially, but over time the expense will be offset by the efficiency of the system. You can cut service costs drastically and keep your heating and cooling systems working efficiently by doing some maintenance and quick fixes yourself. It's means your utility bills can be lower. Energy efficiency is good for the environment, too. Getting the correct size Regarding size of air conditioning and heating equipment, the goal should be to get the optimum size and features for your climate and situation. You can ask the store representative or contractor. Become familiar with effiency standards. Look for an energy efficiency rating label on any system product that you are considering purchasing. Products that meet certain energy efficiency criteria will have the ENERGY STAR logo. Do a home energy assessment Inspect your home and do an energy audit to measure the efficiency of your present heating and cooling system. The process will be a beneficial step towards making your heating and cooling system more efficient and less costly to operate. Your utility company may offer free or low-cost energy assessments, or it may recommend a local company or organization to do them. Check with your state or local government energy or weatherization office for recommendations, or visit energysavers.gov for more resources.

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Contact your local utility to request additional information for sizing the heating and cooling units

Many utility companies offer and provide some type of financial incentive for those that are considering installing a more efficient heating and cooling system. Ask what type system you need and what size is appropriate, also ask about any rebates for energy-efficient units. Many units offer cash-back rebates for purchases in addition to government rebates for energy-efficient appliances.

Compare Heating & Air Conditioning Systems

Look at the different models and ask the store representative questions including how much space a unit can heat or cool, efficiency of the units (SEER and AFUE rating), extra equipment and features, energy rebates and incentives.

Select a professional contractor

Find a contractor who's licensed and reputable, and remember that the Cooling-Off Rule gives you three business days to cancel a contract if you sign it in your home or at a location other than the contractor's permanent place of business. Avoid contractors that are reluctant to offer references.

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Installing a Programmable Thermostat

Programmable thermostats make the best economic sense for every home. Depending on the programmable thermostat, you can select day and night temperatures and even a setting for every day of the week. you could realize a savings of up to $180 on your yearly energy bills.

Maybe you've always wanted to install a programmable thermostat, but have been a little intimidated by the thought of any DIY project that involves wires.

Let's look at how to install a digital programmable thermostat. Remove Coverplate Turn off all power at main electrical panel. Pull off cover from existing thermostat - Depending on the style, you may be able to simply pull the cover off or you may have to loosen a set screw first. Remove Old Thermostat Unscrew thermostat from its wall-mounted sub-base.Once the cover is removed, you should see a glass tube filled with a silvery liquid. This is the mercury, so be careful not to break the glass. Use caution when handling and check with your local recycling company for disposal instructions. Label the low-voltage wires to identify their screw-terminal locations using masking tape and then disconnect the wires. Remove the thermostat base by loosening the mounting screws. Make sure that the thermostat wires do not slip back into the wall, as they can be very difficult to try and fish back out. Install New Thermostat Install the new wall plate, if there is one. You may need to drill new holes for the new model. Use a level to mark where the holes are to be drilled. Use drywall anchors, if necessary. Insert the plastic anchors that came with the thermostat and make sure that they are flush with the wall. Connect the wires to the appropriate screw terminals on the thermostat base following the installation diagram in the new thermostat's owner's manual. Follow these instructions carefully. Insert batteries into the thermostat and snap on the cover, if needed. Restore power and program the new thermostat as directed.

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Manufacturer's installation instructions might differ slightly for each model. Because of the variety of manufacturers, your heating and cooling system may not match your thermostat instructions exactly. If you have any doubt about the electrical connections, contact the manufacturer.

When shopping for your new thermostat, check the thermostat package to ensure it is compatible with your home's system.

What's the best way to optimally control my home's heating and cooling?

You can control your preferred temperature range by entering specific temperature for time ranges during the day (such as 60 degrees when you'll be away and 68 degrees when you're at home for winter heating) with a programmable thermostat. A programmable thermostat is ideal for people who are away from home during set periods of time throughout the week. According to www.energystar.gov, Through proper use of pre-programmed settings, a programmable thermostat can save you about $180 every year in energy costs. Basic thermostats will have just one cycle that will repeat that time range (or multiple ranges) each day. To decide which model is best for you, think about your schedule and how often you are away from home for regular periods of time—work, school, other activities—and then decide which of the three different models best fits your schedule: 5-2 programming: Allows you to set a schedule for 5 days (such as for work or school days) and then an alternate schedule for 2 weekend days. 5-1-1 programming: Same 5-day schedule as above, but with the option to program each weekend day individually. 7-day programming: Allows you to create an individual program for each day of the week.

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You can use the table below as a starting point for setting energy-saving temperatures, and then adjust the settings to fit your family’s schedule and stay comfortable.

http://www.energystar.gov

If you have a heat pump, you may require a special programmable thermostat to maximize your energy savings year-round. Talk to your retailer or contractor for details before selecting your thermostat.

If you have a manual thermostat, you can adjust the temperatures daily before you leave the house and when you go to sleep at night. Typically, adjusting temperatures 5 – 8 degrees (down in winter, up in summer) can help save energy if you are going to be away from home for several hours.

What is an appliance EnergyGuide label?

If you’ve shopped for appliances, you’ve seen the bright yellow EnergyGuide label. Recently revised so it’s easier to use, the label tells you how much energy an

appliance uses.

In the United States, the EnergyGuide appliance label is also shown on Energy Star label of qualifying products. All major home appliances must meet the Appliance Standards Program set by the US Department of Energy (DOE).

To earn the ENERGYSTAR, a product must meet strict energy efficiency guidelines set by the Environmental Protection Agency and Department of Energy.

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Yellow EnergyGuide labels are found mainly on large home appliances and they show an estimate of how much electricity that particular appliance will use over a year of average use.

The EnergyGuide label also shows an average of what it will cost over a year at an estimated power rate. If your local power rate is higher, you can multiply either the low or high kwhs given by your own local power rate to get a better idea of consumption costs.

Energy-efficient appliances are usually priced higher than conventional models, but since they use less energy, you will save money on your electric bills.

For the best energy savings, when you shop for a home appliance, choose a model with the lowest estimated usage shown on the EnergyGuide label, plus the presence of the EnergyStar logo.

What is vampire energy?

Standby power, also called vampire power, vampire draw, phantom load, or leaking electricity is the energy used by some products when they are turned off but still plugged into a power/wall outlet. While this standby power sometimes provides useful functions such as remote control, clock displays, and timers, in other cases it is simply wasted power as a result of leaving an electronic device or power adapter plugged in.

You may have an energy vampire (or, more likely, several) in your home, and don't know it. Even if you turn off a device--such as by pressing the Off button on an HDTV's remote control--it is still consuming some electricity.

This is referred to as vampire energy (or phantom power), as it secretly sucks power while adding to your monthly electrical bill. According to the Department of Energy, up to 75% of energy used by home electronics is consumed when they're "off" and in either standby or passive energy modes.

Standby mode for devices like computers, TVs, DVD players, and game consoles enables a quick return to full usage mode when activated rather than going through a full boot-up process. Examples of devices with passive mode include microwaves (where the clock display draws power) as well as laser printers and cordless phones. The devices causing this waste are referred to as energy vampires because these products are slowing sucking energy from your home while not providing any useful function! In addition to your home office and home electronics equipment, chargers for cell phones, ipods, power tools, etc also suck energy from your home when they are plugged into an outlet, even if they aren't charging. The amount of energy used by products when they are in standby mode is significant. The average U.S. household spends $100 per year to power devices while they are off (or in standby mode). On a national basis, standby power accounts for more than 100 billion kilowatt hours of annual U.S. electricity consumption and more than $10 billion in annual energy costs. The most effective way to vanquish energy-sucking vampires in your home is to simply turn them off, but that can negate the convenience of the device. The next most effective way to keep energy costs down is to make sure to purchase Energy Star-qualified electronics and appliances, which conform to low standby power requirements. For instance, laptops, printers, and TVs must consume 1 watt or less of electricity when in standby mode to qualify for the Energy Star program. To cut down even more on energy vampires, you can also find power accessories that can minimize the time that devices are placed on standby or passive power modes. One accessory will turn power completely off after a set amount of time, and this is can be useful for keeping rechargeable portable devices (like your mobile phone) in full working order while stopping the flow of electricity to it after it's been fully charged. Another accessory can turn power off to peripheral devices (such as a game console and Blu-ray player) when the main device (such as your HDTV) is turned off. The HDTV will still consume power on standby, but the other devices will be completely shut off and they will be powered back on (for a cold boot-up start) when you turn on the HDTV via its physical power button or the one on the remote.

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What is light temperature?

While it's important to understand how much light output you'll get from a bulb, lumens won't tell you whether the bulb produces a warm glow or a bright white color. For that, you'll need to pay attention to the measurement for correlated color temperature, or CCT (also referred to as light or color temperature, or light appearance). 

Measured on the kelvin temperature scale (K), warmer lights (as found with most incandescent bulbs) have a yellowish-white color that measure between 2700K and 3000K. For whiter light that's optimal for kitchens and workspaces, look for bulbs that measure between 3500K and 4100K. And for the bluest light (akin to natural daylight), looks for bulbs marked 5000K to 6500K.

Color temperatures over 5000K are called cool colors (blueish white), while lower color temperatures (2700–3000 K) are called warm colors (yellowish white through red). Starting in 2011, the FTC will be requiring a new label on light bulbs that will not only display the watts of energy used by a bulb but also its brightness level in lumens plus its light color appearance on a spectrum of warm to cool. Additionally, it will include the Energy Star logo if it meets qualifications. And if it's a CFL bulb, it will include a warning that the bulb contains mercury.

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Temperature	Source
1,700 K	Match flame
1,850 K	Candle flame, sunset/sunrise
2,700–3,300 K	Incandescent lamps
3,000 K	Soft (or Warm) White compact fluorescent lamps
3,200 K	Studio lamps, photofloods, etc.
3,350 K	Studio "CP" light
4,100–4,150 K	Moonlight, xenon arc lamp
5,000 K	Horizon daylight
5,000 K	tubular fluorescent lamps or Cool White/Daylight compact fluorescent lamps (CFL)
5,500–6,000 K	Vertical daylight, electronic flash
6,500 K	Daylight, overcast
5,500–10,500 K	LCD or CRT screen
15,000–27,000 K	Clear blue poleward sky
These temperatures are merely characteristic; considerable variation may be present.

source: http://en.wikipedia.org/

What are lumens?

While a watt is the measurement of how much energy is consumed by a light bulb (or other electronic device), a lumen is the measurement of brightness in light output. For instance, a single candle burning at your dining table provides about 12 lumens of light, while a 60-watt light bulb emits about 800 lumens.

Because CFL and LED bulbs consume much less electricity, looking at a bulb's wattage level will be difficult for comparison when making the switch from incandescent bulbs. Instead, lumens will be a better comparative measure as you can match the amount of light that an incandescent bulb produces with that of a CFL or LED. For example, when replacing the 800 lumens of a 60-watt incandescent, you can look for a CFL bulb rated at between 13 to 15 watts or an LED bulb rated at 6 to 8 watts.

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What's the best way to begin using CFL/LED bulbs?

With lighting accounting for close to 20 percent of the average home's electric bill, you'll start saving money and make an environmental impact by switching from incandescent bulbs to either CFL or LED bulbs. Here are some tips on strategies on how to get the most effect--in terms of energy savings and usage--from the switch:

• First change out older bulbs in rooms where lights are used the most, such as the kitchen, living room, and dining room.
• Match the light output (measured in lumens) of your new LED or CFL bulb to that of your old incandescent bulb so that you'll get the same amount of light.

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Can CFL bulbs & LED bulbs be used in dimmable lamps?

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Light Emitting Diode (LED) and Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFL) bulbs have revolutionized energy-efficient lighting.

Dimming saves energy while setting the right light level to improve mood and ambiance. Screw-in compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs) and screw-in light emitting diode bulbs (LEDs) are a great energy-saving alternative to incandescent or halogen light sources; however, dimming them may be difficult.

LEDs are small, very efficient solid bulbs. New LED bulbs are grouped in clusters with diffuser lenses which have broadened the applications for LED use in the home. LED technology is advancing rapidly, with many new bulb styles available. Initially more expensive than CFLs, LEDs bring more value since they last longer. Also, the price of LED bulbs is going down each year as the manufacturing technology continues to improve.

CFLs are simply miniature versions of full-sized fluorescents. They screw into standard lamp sockets, and give off light that looks similar to the common incandescent bulbs - not like the fluorescent lighting we associate with factories and schools.

The question is, Can CFL bulbs & LED bulbs be used in dimmable lamps?

Both CFL bulbs & LED bulbs can be used in dimmable lamps!, but the CFL must be labeled as dimmable; be sure to check the product details or packaging. Dimmable CFLs maintain light color more consistently than incandescent bulbs, while dimming to 10 to 40% of its original brightness (where incandescents dim from 100% brightness to zero, and change light color from bright white to warm yellow). Dimmable CFL bulbs typically come in a soft white color temperature.

As for LED bulbs, again be sure to check the product details or packaging to see if it's labeled as compatible with dimmers.

Are CFL bulbs dangerous?

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Compact fluorescent (CFL) bulbs are supposed to be good for your electricity bill. The bulbs use 50 percent less energy and last much longer than incandescent bulbs. Vicki Cobb says one of the bulbs, installed in a lamp, has lasted four years.

But are they bad for your health?

CFL bulbs contain a small amount of mercury (4 milligrams on average) sealed within its winding glass tube. This is because the CFL uses mercury vapor is an essential element to creating light within the bulb. No mercury is released when the bulb is intact (not broken) or in use.

The problem comes when a bulb breaks. Mercury escapes as vapor that can be inhaled and as a fine powder that can settle into carpet and other textiles. At least one case of mercury poisoning has been linked to fluorescents: A 1987 article in Pediatrics describes a 23-month-old who suffered weight loss and severe rashes after a carton of eight-foot (2.4-meter) tubular bulbs broke in a play area.

When a CFL burns out, it's recommended that you take the bulb to a CFL recycling center (the Earth911.com site is a good resource for finding recycling sites near you). When the bulb is recycled, it will go through a mercury absorbing filter to negate any mercury emission into the atmosphere or environment.

If a CFL bulb breaks, make sure people and pets leave the room and air out the room for 5 to 10 minutes. After thoroughly collecting the broken glass and any visible powder, it's recommended that you place the broken CFL pieces into a sealable container and then transfer it to an outdoor trash container.

What are the differences in the types of light bulbs used in the home?

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We've gotten used to the mushroom-shaped incandescent light bulb that's illuminated our homes for generations. But over the last decade, two new light bulb technologies have become more widely available--as well as more affordable--while offering significant energy use and cost savings.

• Incandescent: The most common light bulb, the one that you grew up with, incandescent bulbs are inexpensive and provide a variety of illumination levels (from 15 to 150 watts). However, incandescents are not very efficient, losing up to 95% of its energy as heat (with a 100-watt bulb heating up to around 300 degrees F).
  
• CFL (Compact Fluorescent): A type of fluorescent lamp, CFLs provide the same amount of visible light as incandescents, but they use less power (about 75% less) as well as produce less heat (also about 75%). While they're more expensive, they can last up to 10 times as long as an incandescent bulb and save you up to $40 of energy costs during their life.
  One downside, however, is that CFL bulbs contain a small amount of mercury, which requires extra steps for removing them from your home either after it burns out or if it breaks (see more below). Another frustration about some CFL bulbs is they tend to require a warm-up time of between 30 seconds and one minute before they reach their full brightness.
• LED (Light Emitting Diode): Even more efficient and longer lasting than incandescents and CFLs, LED lamps are the next step to reducing your energy consumption and saving money on your electric bill. You might be familiar with LED lights on electronics (such as a power button), but now lamp bulbs are able to take advantage of multiple illuminator LEDs inside a fixture to produce full spectrum color (i.e., white light). 
  LED bulbs can last up to 50,000 hours (about 8 times the life of a CFL bulb and about 15 times that of an incandescent bulb), and they produce far less heat than incandescents (like CFL bulbs). Unlike CFL bulbs, there's no warm-up time for the LED bulb to get to full brightness. And LED bulbs do not contain mercury, so there's no worry about disposal.